#1 Multilingual 

Multilingual | Français | [English]
During the last Littel's ones' market, we had the opportunity to have a speaker briefly introduce you to a particular piece of equipment, sold at the market, but above all that you will use throughout your journey.

I would publish here the transcripts of these presentations, which are the work of our dear guests.

#2 Multilingual 

Multilingual | Français | [English]
transcript from Scooby's course on 24th august 2019

How to choose a good magic amplifier?

A simple tutorial for low level homins.

You will tell me, a magic amplifier must be supreme! No, not necessarily.....…

First of all, you must know the maximum quality of the amps you can wear: Intelligence + 10. You will find your level of intelligence in Identity (key P).

The quality number of the amp you want to buy is displayed in the lower right corner of the amplifier icon.

Quality of the magic amplifiers: Intelligence + 10 (Intel max = highest magic level + 25)

Note: An amp can only amplify spells whose level is less than or equal to the quality of the amp, hence the interest of getting amps of a level greater than or equal to the highest spell you can cast.

A right click on your amps, info and you will have... the informations on your amps.

  • The icon of the object (weapon, armor, loot...) has a different background depending on the origin: Tryker (blue), Fyros (orange yellow), Matis (green), Zorai (violet)
  • Hit points: when your amp reaches 1 hit point, you no longer have an amp.
  • Sap Charge: this is the maximum charge your amp can have in sap crystals to enchant spells. We will see about that later.
  • Skill, damage, hits per minutes...... up to magic bonuses, these features have no interest on amps.

We will focus on the important things:

That's when things get interesting. We must look at themagic bonus and therefore, thepercentages of speed and power of the spell. The higher the power, the more the spell is amplified, and the higher the percentage of speed, the faster your spell will start.

For low levels, an ampli is considered as good when it has minimum 83 % - 84 % in seep and power on the branch you want to train (Elemental, Offensive affliction, Heal, Defensive affliction).
It is obvious, it is better that your amps increase your spells by 100%, rather than 50% (for information, the 83% zone corresponds to an amp made with mostly excellent materials, the amps with mostly supreme materials will be around 97%)

The higher the percentages, the better your amps will be!

At the beginning, only elemental and heal are important, you will raise the offensive and defensive affliction much later: they do not inflict any damage (except in the case of madness), so they are not very worthwhile initially.

It is possible to have either percentages for a specific magic branch, or for absolutely all branches (very convenient).

And if you know the crafter and you smile at him, he can sign a beautiful message for you, in the crafter's message.…

As with all weapons, you can enchant your amplifiers:
  • right click on a spell, Life Gift for example
  • crystallize
  • take your crystallised spell
  • in your inventory, find the spell you just crystallized and do a "enchant right hand". Obviously, you have to wear your amp to enchant the right hand of your amp (you will see a number in the top left corner on the icon of your amp, which corresponds to the sap load).
  • recharge your amps with sap crystals or sap charges (which you can buy with faction points from the federal merchant in Fairhaven for example)
  • to use the spell, use the stanza (or brick) "Use Item Enchantment".

Enchantments are very useful to quickly heal a team member for example. You can alternate with a classic life spell, which will help you to bring up your teammate's life very quickly. Be careful, remember to recharge your amps everytime with sap crystals.

On your amp info, you can see what spell you have enchanted:

Thanks to Scooby for her work

Edited 3 times | Last edited by Ashgan (1 year ago)

#3 Multilingual 

il est super ton post !!! merci Ashgan !!

#4 [fr] 


En complément :

Last edited by Craftjenn (1 year ago)


Mon profil sur le wiki Francais

Craftjenn, Ranger

#5 [en] 

Very nice, can the wiki adopt it?

#6 [en] 

Very nice, can the wiki adopt it?

that was made for being shared, so it's a yes for me.
(please credit Scooby for the work and Kyriann for the trad)

Last edited by Ashgan (1 year ago)

#7 Multilingual 

Multilingual | [Français] | English

Les armures, comment ca marche?

On pourrait discuter indéfiniment de la coupe, de la couleur, du style...
Mais, si vous regardez de plus près, les tenues atysiennes se classent en 3 catégories :
  • Armures légères
  • Armures moyennes
  • Armures lourdes

Une armure pourquoi faire ?

Quelle armure choisir et comment les distinguer?

Le plus simple est de sélectionner une pièce dans votre inventaire ou onglet équipement et de cliquer sur "info" dans le menu contextuel qui s'affiche.

Voici les caractéristiques importantes à étudier :

Absorption des dégâts physiques

Une armure sert avant tout à vous protéger.
Elle vous protège des attaques physiques d'un ennemi, mais pas des attaques magiques !

Cette protection est définie par la caractéristique "Protection", en pourcentage.
Une armure qui a pour facteur de protection 30% peut donc, en théorie, réduire de 30% les dégâts physiques d'un ennemi.

Il faut donc, a priori, privilégier une armure avec un pourcentage élevé de protection.

De plus, les attaques physiques peuvent être de trois types :
  • Tranchant (ex PVE : clopper / ex. PVP : épée)
  • Perforant (ex. PVE : kirosta / ex. PVP : pique)
  • Contondant (ex. PVE : bodoc / ex. PVP : masse)

Sur votre pièce d'armure, vous trouverez 3 valeurs de maximum d'absorption des dégâts, une pour chaque type de dégât.
Il faut combiner à la fois facteur de protection (en %) et absorption (en point) en prenant le plus faible des deux résultats.

Un bodoc (dégât contondant) me porte un coup a la poitrine qui fait 607 points de dégâts.

le taux max d'absorption des dégâts contondants est de 446 sur mon armure : je peux réduire au maximum de 446 points mes dégâts.

Mais le facteur de protection de mon armure est de 53,4%, soit 324 points : je réduis donc l'attaque de 324 points et j'encaisse 283 points de dégâts.

Ces trois taux d'absorption sont liés à la qualité de mon armure.
Plus la qualité de l'armure est grande, plus ces chiffres sont grands.

Il faut privilégier une armure avec la plus haute qualité.

Le pourcentage de protection (hors boost) change en fonction du type de l'armure :
  • 45% ~ 55% pour les armures lourdes
  • 30% ~ 45% pour les armures moyennes
  • 10% ~ 25% pour les armures légères

Malus d'action

Vu comme ça, on pourrait croire que la meilleure armure est l'armure lourde.
C'est oublier la pénalité d'action.

Ce malus augmente, pour chaque action, la consommation de vie, sève, endurance, et concentration.
Pour un mage, il réduit aussi la portée d'un sort.
  • Armure légère : pas de malus.
  • Armure moyenne : 5% de malus par pièce : total 25% pour une armure complète.
  • Armure lourde : 20% de malus par pièce : total 120% de malus pour une armure complète.

il faut privilégier des armures qui minimisent le malus d'action.

Le malus d'action est en opposition avec le facteur de protection.
Le choix d'une armure sera en fonction de la manière dont vous combattez.
  • Armure lourde qui favorise le facteur de protection pour un combat de corps à corps, exemple tank.
  • Armure légère qui réduit le malus d'action pour un mage qui attaque à distance et ne va jamais au corps à corps (ex. groupe avec tank)
  • Armure moyenne peut être un bon compromis en fonction des circonstances : second tank, arme de tir, mage au corps à corps...

Le foreur privilégiera une armure légère pour minimiser sa consommation en concentration.

le choix entre armure légère, moyenne ou lourde dépend de ce que vous voulez favoriser :
minimiser le "malus d'action" ou maximiser le "facteur de protection".

Bonus vie et bonus générique

Les pièces d'armure ajoutent un bonus vie en fonction de leur type :
  • armure légère : 0
  • armure moyenne : qualité/2
  • armure lourde : qualité
À côté de ce bonus vie automatique, l'artisan peut lors de la confection d'un élément d'armure ajouter un bonus générique de vie, concentration, endurance ou sève d'une valeur max de "qualité/2".

En général, le bonus générique "vie" est un bon choix. Sinon :
  • les foreurs privilégieront un bonus concentration.
  • les mages privilégieront un bonus sève.
  • les combattants de mêlée privilégieront un bonus endurance.
On peut aussi mixer ces bonus généralement avec une partie vie.

Mode de défense

Il existe 2 modes de défense : la parade ou l'esquive.

Vous pouvez sélectionner le mode dans votre barre d'options.

Vous trouvez vos valeurs d’esquive ou de parade dans l’écran identité, touche P.
Votre valeur de parade ou d'esquive personnelle évolue en fonction de votre niveau :
Esquive = votre niveau maximum en magie ou mêlée, ou votre niveau maximum/2 en forage ou artisanat.
Parade = votre niveau maximum en mêlée avec l'arme équipée.
On cherche toujours à maximiser cette valeur.

Le choix d'un mode de défense, parade ou esquive, dépend donc de votre niveau et de l'arme et l'armure que vous portez.

Il faut savoir que chaque pièce d'une armure apporte un bonus en parade ou esquive comme suit :
  • Armure légère – Esquive : 0 à 2 / Parade : 0 à 1
  • Armure moyenne – Esquive : -1 à 1 / Parade : 0 à 2
  • Armure lourde – Esquive : -3 à 0 (pas de bonus d'esquive) / Parade : 0 à 3

On cherche à maximiser l’un des deux bonus, et le plus souvent on parlera :
  • armure légère full esquive : 2 x 5 pièces = +10 d'esquive en plus de votre esquive de base
  • armure lourde full parade : 3 x 6 pièces = +18 de parade en plus de votre parade de base

Qualité max que je peux porter

Pour terminer comment savoir si je peux porter une pièce d'armure?

Si l'armure est grisée dans l'inventaire ou une interface d'achat ou d'échange, vous n'avez pas les caractéristiques requises, à savoir :
  • Armure légère : niveau maximum + 25
  • Armure moyenne : constitution x 1,5
  • Armure lourde : constitution + 10

Merci a Anthikal pour son travail

Edited 2 times | Last edited by Ashgan (1 year ago)

#8 [en] 

Very helpful info here.

#9 [fr] 

Very nice, can the wiki adopt it?

that was made for being shared, so it's a yes for me.
(please credit Scooby for the work and Kyriann for the trad)
oui mais c'est toi, Ashgan, qui sait où sont les images en trouvé la page que tu as faite sur le wiki fr (on a jouté les catégorie pour que ces 2 pages sopient trouvables sur le wiki)coté wiki anglais, j'ai juste ajouté un lien vers le forum (je viens de découvrir où c'était sur le forum)


Mon profil sur le wiki Francais

Craftjenn, Ranger

#10 [fr] 

oui mais c'est toi, Ashgan, qui sait où sont les images en trouvé la page que tu as faite sur le wiki fr (on a jouté les catégorie pour que ces 2 pages sopient trouvables sur le wiki)coté wiki anglais, j'ai juste ajouté un lien vers le forum (je viens de découvrir où c'était sur le forum)

Last edited by Ashgan (1 year ago)

#11 Multilingual 

Multilingual | Français | [English]

Melee Weapons. How to chose yours?

Transcript of the tutorial given by Naveruss on Dua, Frutor 20, 3rd AC 2606 (January 4, 2020).

oren pyr! I’ll talk about weapon and explain how it works.


Ideally, the weapon should be of the highest possible level in relation to what you can carry.

Note: The maximum level you can carry is equal to your strength+10. Similarly, your maximum strength can reach your highest level in fighting+15.

However, a poorly made weapon can be less effective than a lower level weapon that is properly made.
The same is true for quality, a supreme weapon may be less effective than a choice weapon.
Below are the characteristics of two two-handed swords of the same level, one supreme but poorly made and one of choice but properly made.

Characteristics to be checked

Now we'll look at the most important features of the weapon.

First of all, you should know that a weapon can be used to hit both mobs (PvE) and homins (PvP), but for the moment we're only interested in mobs.

Against animals, the most important thing will be to do as much damage as possible, taking into account the damage per hit and the number of hits per minute.
It is important to know that the damage varies from one weapon to another, maces and axes being the most violent, then come swords and spears.
Then, the bonuses of parry and dodge improve your defense, they are moderately important, especially if you are in team with a healer.
Likewise, the opposing parry and dodge modifiers are of less importance against beasts, as they usually combine with a weak parry or dodge.
However, against homins, these latter characteristics gain in importance, but I won't elaborate on this.

To sum up, you need to favour your weapon's damage per minute first, then all the dodge and parry modifiers after that.

One- or two-handed weapons?

Now we're going to talk about the differences between one-handed and two-handed weapons.

Two-handed weapons do more damage per minute and offer better parry bonuses for you and against your opponent.
It can be interesting, when starting out, to start by practicing using a good big two-handed weapon, such as an axe or mace.

A one-handed weapon will be less offensive but will allow you to use a shield or a buckler to improve your defense (or possibly a dagger in the case of the sword).
One-handed weapons also offer better dodge modifiers.

In summary, if you have a choice, then use two-handed weapons against parrying mobs, and one-handed weapons against dodging mobs.

What kind of damage?

Slashing weapons can cause hemorrhaging, and thus damage bonuses, and most animals are vulnerable to slash.

Blunt weapons are used to slow down opponents' attacks, and thus limit the damage received. However, fewer animals are susceptible to them.

Piercing weapons can override your opponent's protection. Therefore, despite their lower damage, they are formidable against heavily protected enemies.

Note: Pikes and spears are primarily used for PvP or against certain resistant mobs such as vorax or kipucka. So it's not a priority to master them at the beginning.

What in the left hand?

One last point that we are going to address, when you have a weapon in one hand, what should you choose between a shield, a buckler or a dagger for the left hand?

If you want to maximise your parry, take a shield.

Conversely, if you want to maximize your dodge, take a rondache, or a dagger if you already have a sword or dagger in the other hand.

What to look for in the system information?

Either you are told that you have not hit your target, in which case you do not do any damage, or you hit, in which case, the net damage inflicted is indicated, and in brackets, the raw damage before subtracting the reduction to damage due to the enemy's resistance.
You will also find your opponent's parry or dodge information allowing you to adapt your weapon for one- or two-handed weapons.

Edited 2 times | Last edited by Kyriann (12 months ago)


Kyriann Ba'Zephy Rie
Cheffe de la guilde Bai Nhori Drakani
Mère de famille

#12 Multilingual 

Multilingual | [English] | Français

All lessons are now on the wiki too at


Last edited by Craftjenn (12 months ago)

#13 Multilingual 

Multilingual | Français | [English]

All about jewels

Transcript of the lecture given by Zendae on 5h - Dua, Thermis 20, 3rd AC 2607 (14/03/2020).

My name is Zendae, I was born into the Hamazans of the Dead Seed tribe. Jewellery is a precocious passion of mine.
In my sorority, I was in charge of making ornaments, so I had to assimilate the rules of this craft.
I consider myself to be self-taught, but that's only half true. Even if I don't have an identified master, there is some knowledge that is very difficult to find alone, but which results from numerous exchanges with your relatives, having themselves learned some knowledge.

I will therefore share with you some important notions about jewels, especially about how they protect us. The goal being to widen your knowledge in order to be able to better equip you, today and in the future.

As far as homin memories go... jewels have always existed. But they weren't as functional as they are today. They could have an ornamental function and social rank, like finely worked matis earrings and necklaces ... Or they could have a symbolic or monetary function, like tryker rings... Among the fyros, anklet rings and bracelets were musical instruments, which they used to ring during festive dances or war to impress their enemies... And finally, the traditional Zorai tiara set with a polished amber sphere is so old that it is said that the Zorais already used it before they inherited their mask, to focus their meditation.

Then the homins discovered magic, a teaching of the Kamis. They learned how to make weapons and armour with potions to increase their vitality, endurance, sap or concentration. Then, they discovered that jewels have the ability to protect us from the magical forces of elemental magic, just as armor protects us from physical blows.
The jewelry took on a new function, and each people learned how to make a complete set of jewels.

Jewelry and Potions

Let's first talk about the effect of jewelry on our physiological resources.

Each piece of jewelry, like any piece of equipment, can be made with a potion.
A potion can increase either your vitality, your concentration, your sap, your stamina ... or even a mixture of these four; the total is up to half of the quality "Q" of the jewel.
And since we can wear up to ten pieces of jewellery, this makes the set the most potion-packed set of equipment. For example, a homin with a maximum skill level of 55, could wear jewels of quality Q70 -25 degrees higher than his level-, with each one providing 35 health points, or 350 points in total.
For a master of the 25th circle, a standard jewelry set provides up to 1250 health points .

Life... or focus; from a certain level, a forager cannot spare a complete focus set while extracting materials, it is an indispensable piece of equipment.

The complete sets of sap or stamina are not very used to my knowledge, but a mix life / sap or life / stamina could prove interesting especially for the solitary hunters who too often found themselves paralyzed by lack of sap or stamina.

Nevertheless, the life set is of the most elementary when it comes to surviving dangers!
This is what you need to get started.

By rummaging through the markets, you can find jewelry made by other homins to renew your finery.
But don't expect anything more from these jewels than to provide potions that are relevant to your level!
When it comes to magical defenses, they are often far below what a craftsman can do when he makes the effort.

I will say a few more words about these potions applied to jewellery.
It is possible to find jewels with a potion contribution higher than the normal one, that is to say higher than half the quality of the jewel:
- on the jewels made with the help of a tool improved with armilo, material coming from outposts;
- on jewels gained in the loot by robbing named primitives, the least of whom was Doren, living north of the Lakes;
- on jewels won during "Quests of the Wise": one quest per capital, once in a homin's life;
- and finally on jewels made from an "aberrant" trick -probably invented by a fyros - which consists mainly for the craftsman to be dressed in heavy armor; but this is an insignificant process on small jewels.

Here is a first sample of jewels with additional potions.

Jewelry and Magic Defense

Let's move on to the magical defense of the jewels.

This is a much more complex and exciting aspect than the first one!
And often neglected by novice hunters or magicians, or even masters.
Why? Because even if you know the theory, optimizing the magical defense of an ornament will require some planning, either from you or your mentors. But if your progress is fast, making a high value-added set of jewellery will not be worth the candle: you will soon have to make a new one. Young recruits usually evolve with jewellery without looking for a magical defence, get used to it and are always satisfied with it even once they have mastered it...

And yet, optimizing the magic defense would make you more efficient. Less effort for your healer, less untimely slips, better chances of survival. For example, it annoys me to see homins chasing the kincher without electrical protection.

As for novices, with the right finery, mowing intelligent plants becomes very easy di amataki, even alone.

In terms of magical defense, the most complex adornments are the war ornaments, which must cover you with all possible spells, those of offensive magic at the very least.

So in summary, we need a set with good magic defences for :
- Increase our survivability while on the move against untimely magical attacks from wildlife;
- Be more effective when hunting a specific species that we know has special magical attacks, and that we will hunt many times;
- To defend ourselves against magical attacks from other homins.

All this requires a knowledge of Atys and its dangers. Could you give me some examples of animals that are capable of performing an attack of elemental magical force?

In terms of magical defenses, we must distinguish two things: Protections and Resistances.

And to start with, every homin has natural magical protections and resistances, even in his birthday suit, di amataki. These mainly increase as you develop your skills as a warrior or magician.


Let's start with the easiest to understand: the Protections.

They only concern offensive magic: Acid, Cold, Rot, Fire, Poison, Shockwave and Electricity.
That's seven types of elemental forces in all.
]All homins naturally have a 10% protection rating against acid, cold, and rot. And, depending on their race of sap, an additional 20% protection rate,
fire for the fyros, poison for the matis, shockwave for the trykers and electricity for the zorais.

These protection rates do not increase with training, but what does increase is the ]absorption threshold, which is equal to half of your highest combat or magic skill, and is the maximum you can take from a magic attack without suffering damage.

Hmm you follow di amatakima? Okay, here's an example:

Imagine Be'mayol Jicky, a 10th Circle melee combat tryker ―without jewel― , melee beeing his highest skill.
He has a natural absorption threshold of 50 magic damage (100 / 2 ).
- He gets hit by a cold spell from a defensive Stinga, causing 200 damages.
He absorbs 10% of the damage, a decrease of 20 damages, which is well below his absorption threshold of 50.
In the end, he suffers 200 - 20 = 180 damages.
- Later Be'mayol meets Yberkan, a very rare bird.
He suffers a shock wave of 400 damages by annoying one of its guards.
According to his natural protection rate against the shock wave, he could absorb 20% of it, that is to say 80 damages.
But 80 is higher than the threshold of 50, di amatakizo! It's the smaller one that wins.
so in the end he still suffers 400 - 50 = 350 damages.

In both cases, it will expose our novice Tryker to danger.
But he can protect himself with jewelry, which will have two effects:
- Increase certain levels of protection;
- and increase the maximum absorption threshold.

Or, say in more detail:
- Each standard design piece of jewelry increases three of seven protection levels up to +8%;
- Each piece of jewelry increases the wearer's absorption rate by a value equal to half its quality.

Suppose our tryker Be'mayol gets a Q120 set.
In addition to 600 additional health points, this will already raise its absorption rate to 50 (natural) + 60x10 (jewels) = 650 damages. That's better, isn't it?
Let's assume that our tryker has a special set of jewels, each of which gives him 8% extra protection against shock waves.
This gives him in theory 10 x 8% = 80%...
On top of that his 20% natural ! So in total 100% protection !? Wow! Immune!?

Well... no...
because the maximum protection a homin can have against an elemental force is 70%.

Still, with 70% protection against shock waves and also let's assume - let's be crazy - 70% protection against the cold;
in the previous attack examples, Be'mayol would only have suffered 60 out of 200 damages from the stinga,
and 120 out of 400 from the Yber.
That's a pretty big defense, especially if the attacks are repeated.

In my opinion, a good magic defense will save you much more often than a potion value just a little higher on the jewel.
A Q200 set instead of Q250 is a deficit of 250 potions of life.
250 is a lot? no, just a pinch from a clopper.

Let's go back to our special set with +8 jewels.
A set offering 80% protection already represents a non-optimization since 10% is necessarily wasted, the maximum being 70%. Without forgetting that the homin may already have a natural protection.
But nothing obliges to have a set with all the identical jewels!
We can very well have a mix of different jewels to have a substantial coverage on a selection of elemental forces that we risk to undergo most frequently unexpectedly.

For example, a set that would cover electricity, acid, poison and fire... would seem to me to be valuable and reassuring.


Well, now that you've fully grasped the concept of Protection, let's move on to Resistance.

As for protection, every homin has a natural resistance to magic spells. The fauna and flora are also able to resist our spells besides. I said spells and not forces. You can't withstand the electric shock of a Kincher, or the acidic spit of a Zerx. You can only resist spells, meaning incanted magical attacks. This is the case of attacks coming from homins, but also from intelligent plants, primitives, and some rare animals like the gubani.

When you successfully resist a spell, you don't suffer any of its effects!

Our natural resistance to spells is equal to our highest skill in combat or magic, minus 26 points.
You must therefore already have at least one level above 26 to benefit from any resistance.
The natural resistance of a master in melee or magic is therefore 250 - 26 = 224 points.
For non-battle skills, take half of their value as a basis.

More precisely, we have five kinds of resistances, one for each of the Domains of magic:
The Desert Domain;
The Forest Domain;
The Lake Domain;
The Jungle Domain;
The Prime Root Domain.

Each spell of elemental magic, but also of offensive and defensive affliction, is part of one of these Domains. Healing magic is not linked to a Domain, but ..., that said, no one wants to resist a healing spell, hahaha!

For example:
- If you have a high resistance to the *Jungle Domain*,
you can resist the electric spell of a Psykopla.
- If you have a high resistance to the *Lake Domain*,
you will be able to withstand the shockwave spell of the same Psykopla or the cold one of a Stinga.
It is therefore necessary to learn to which domain each spell belongs! At least every elemental magic spell.

Just as for Protection, there is for the magical resistance of the homins a specificity of sap breed, di amataki.
A homin will have an extra 10 points of resistance in the domain that corresponds to his sap.
For example, a tryker is more resistant to the spells of Lake Domain.

But because that would be too simple, there's also a region specificity!
For example, when we are in the Jungle, our resistance to the Jungle domain is decreased by 10.
By the way, this is also true for the fauna and flora.
It will less resist to electric spells in the jungle, and less to poison spells in the forest, and so on.

When we endure a spell, we have a chance to resist it.
The higher your resistance is, compared to the magic power of the attacker, the more likely you are to resist it.
It should be noted:
- For elemental magic, we compare the level of the spellcaster with the resistance of the target;
a master of elemental magic will always injure his target even with a weak spell;
- For offensive or defensive affliction, we compare the level of the spell with the resistance of the target;
so it requires a powerful spell to control powerful creatures;
- beyond a certain differential, your chances of resisting will never be more than three out of four (75%).
- or, formulated from another point of view: 1/4 of the attacks will always pass even with the best resistance[/i] …

- Each standard jewel increases your resistance in three of five domains by up to +8.
- The values of resistances have a maximum value of 50 points above your highest magic or combat skill.

For example, our tryker Be'mayol Jicky from the 10th circle can therefore have a maximum resistance of 150, thanks to the jewels.
Which is already higher than the plants he'd reap to train alone.

If, to mow intelligent plants that only use magic attacks, you have a set that offers resistances AND protections against their spells, then mowing becomes even easier di amatakizo!
This even if the set is of a quality "Q" lower than what you can claim :
only 1/4 of the attacks will pass, with only 30% of their power…

Jewelry and Craft

Now let's talk about jewelry crafting!

The Resistances and Protections that a jewel provides are a function of the materials from which it was made.
The result depends on the selections and combinations of materials, as is the case with any craft.

Creating an optimized ornament, taking into account what you want to face, but also taking into account your natural defenses, often takes a lot of time. Not to mention the time to glean the materials afterwards! And ornaments are not eternal, they wear out! So you have to know how to accept compromises or get organised.

For example, the great guild craftsmen who have to equip the troops of novices will develop a recipe for plant jewelry, i. e. a recipe which is easy to glean materials for mass production, and which offers acceptable protection against the most hunted plants: psykoplas and cratchas.
It will be all the easier to produce if the recipe only requires material from digging, of which good quantities can be obtained quickly.

War sets, on the other hand, are only relevant once you are close to a level of master and therefore have the maximum natural resistance to spells. They are designed to discourage the opponent from using magic. Resistances and protections are distributed to cover all types of offensive magic spells.
Either you resist or you absorb!
If a spell is not covered by a resistance or protection, in the jargon, there is said to be a "hole".
If the hole is uncovered by the enemy, you will be swept systematically afterwards.
The war ornament represents a summit of Homin craftsmanship, invented here on the New Lands.
It is very effective against elemental magic, but remember that it is impossible to cover all the afflictions with a single jewelry set, because you can only maximally resist three of the five areas.
Besides, one cannot resist so well to offensive or defensive affliction even with a set.

We're almost done with this jewelry course.
I'm passing around new samples of jewelry thanks to the organizers with different settings: troop training jewelry, antikitin jewelry for the troops, veteran tracker jewelry, and war jewelry.

Artistic Jewelry

These jewels are made from hunting and digging materials from a single region.
They can bring interesting protections but are also beautiful gifts.

Utility jewellery

Elite Jewelry

War/Combat Jewelry

Jewelry and Plan

One last word on the durability of jewelry!

These are pieces of equipment that wear out very quickly. You have to consider the other scale of "quality" of objects.
Not the one that is given in numbers, but the one that depends on the plan used by the craftsman: basic, medium or high quality.
What influence does this have on the characteristics of the jewellery?
Absolutely none: a jewel of high quality will not necessarily have better characteristics than a jewel of basic quality.
Except its durability.
The durability of high-grade jewelry is much higher!
Just remember it when you no longer need to upgrade your finery every spring and will therefore be able to invest in sustainability.


Here, for those who would like to continue with readings...

You should know that there is a sheet on jewellery written, a long time ago, by Zorais from the former Wakwai monastery.
It sums up very well the essence of the magical defence by jewels. And shorter than what I've done today!
Jewelry File
(Only french version. The document dates from before a reform on jewellery resistance, but the gist is right).

For those who are more particularly interested in making, you can also read the diary of my discoveries in jewellery craftsmanship. I will continue to write it one day...
Jewellery Apprentice

I would like to thank the Fairhaven Market organizers for inviting me di amabini, in particular nair Kyriann.
And thank you, attentive listeners.
May this course benefit you.
Meriae! Hezivele! Umaferye!
Beauty! Curiosity! Virtuosity!


Kyriann Ba'Zephy Rie
Cheffe de la guilde Bai Nhori Drakani
Mère de famille
Last visit Sun Feb 28 15:50:50 2021 UTC

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