YOUR CREATIONS & GUIDES


uiWebPrevious1uiWebNext

#1 Multilingual 

Multilingual | Français | [English]
During the last Littel's ones' market, we had the opportunity to have a speaker briefly introduce you to a particular piece of equipment, sold at the market, but above all that you will use throughout your journey.

I would publish here the transcripts of these presentations, which are the work of our dear guests.

#2 Multilingual 

Multilingual | Français | [English]
transcript from Scooby's course on 24th august 2019

How to choose a good magic amplifier?

A simple tutorial for low level homins.


You will tell me, a magic amplifier must be supreme! No, not necessarily.....…

First of all, you must know the maximum quality of the amps you can wear: Intelligence + 10. You will find your level of intelligence in Identity (key P).

The quality number of the amp you want to buy is displayed in the lower right corner of the amplifier icon.


Quality of the magic amplifiers: Intelligence + 10 (Intel max = highest magic level + 25)

Note: An amp can only amplify spells whose level is less than or equal to the quality of the amp, hence the interest of getting amps of a level greater than or equal to the highest spell you can cast.

A right click on your amps, info and you will have... the informations on your amps.

  • The icon of the object (weapon, armor, loot...) has a different background depending on the origin: Tryker (blue), Fyros (orange yellow), Matis (green), Zorai (violet)
  • Hit points: when your amp reaches 1 hit point, you no longer have an amp.
  • Sap Charge: this is the maximum charge your amp can have in sap crystals to enchant spells. We will see about that later.
  • Skill, damage, hits per minutes...... up to magic bonuses, these features have no interest on amps.

We will focus on the important things:


That's when things get interesting. We must look at themagic bonus and therefore, thepercentages of speed and power of the spell. The higher the power, the more the spell is amplified, and the higher the percentage of speed, the faster your spell will start.

For low levels, an ampli is considered as good when it has minimum 83 % - 84 % in seep and power on the branch you want to train (Elemental, Offensive affliction, Heal, Defensive affliction).
It is obvious, it is better that your amps increase your spells by 100%, rather than 50% (for information, the 83% zone corresponds to an amp made with mostly excellent materials, the amps with mostly supreme materials will be around 97%)


The higher the percentages, the better your amps will be!

At the beginning, only elemental and heal are important, you will raise the offensive and defensive affliction much later: they do not inflict any damage (except in the case of madness), so they are not very worthwhile initially.

It is possible to have either percentages for a specific magic branch, or for absolutely all branches (very convenient).

And if you know the crafter and you smile at him, he can sign a beautiful message for you, in the crafter's message.…

Enchantment
As with all weapons, you can enchant your amplifiers:
  • right click on a spell, Life Gift for example
  • crystallize
  • take your crystallised spell
  • in your inventory, find the spell you just crystallized and do a "enchant right hand". Obviously, you have to wear your amp to enchant the right hand of your amp (you will see a number in the top left corner on the icon of your amp, which corresponds to the sap load).
  • recharge your amps with sap crystals or sap charges (which you can buy with faction points from the federal merchant in Fairhaven for example)
  • to use the spell, use the stanza (or brick) "Use Item Enchantment".

Enchantments are very useful to quickly heal a team member for example. You can alternate with a classic life spell, which will help you to bring up your teammate's life very quickly. Be careful, remember to recharge your amps everytime with sap crystals.

On your amp info, you can see what spell you have enchanted:


Thanks to Scooby for her work

Edited 3 times | Last edited by Ashgan (1 year ago)

#3 Multilingual 

il est super ton post !!! merci Ashgan !!

#4 [fr] 

Oui

En complément :

https://fr.wiki.ryzom.com/wiki/Enchantement_d%E2%80%99armes

Last edited by Craftjenn (1 year ago)

---



Mon profil sur le wiki Francais https://fr.wiki.ryzom.com/wiki/Utilisatrice:Craftjenn


Craftjenn, Ranger

#5 [en] 

Very nice, can the wiki adopt it?

#6 [en] 

Moniq
Very nice, can the wiki adopt it?

that was made for being shared, so it's a yes for me.
(please credit Scooby for the work and Kyriann for the trad)

Last edited by Ashgan (1 year ago)

#7 Multilingual 

Multilingual | Français | [English]

Armor, how does it work?


We could discuss indefinitely the cut, the color, the style...
But, if you look closer, Atysian outfits fall into 3 categories:
  • Light armor
  • Medium armor
  • Heavy armor

Armor for what?

Which armor to choose and how to distinguish them?

The easiest way is to select a part from your inventory or equipment tab and click on "info" in the pop-up menu that appears.


Here are the important features to consider:

Absorption of physical damage


Armor is primarily used to protect you.
It protects you from physical attacks from an enemy, but not magical attacks!

This protection is defined by the characteristic "Protection factor" in percentage.
An armor with a protection factor of 30% can therefore, in theory, reduce the physical damage of an enemy by 30%.

It is therefore necessary, a priori, to favour armour with a high percentage of protection.

In addition, physical attacks can be of three types:
  • Sharp (ex PVE: clopper / ex. PVP: sword)
  • Perforating (e. g. PVE: kirosta / e. g. PVP: spade)
  • Blunt (e. g. PVE : bodoc / e. g. PVP : mass)

On your armor piece you will find 3 values of maximum damage absorption, one for each type of damage.
It is necessary to combine both protection factor (in %) and absorption (in point), taking the lower of the two results.

Example:
A bodoc (blunt damage) hits me with a blow in the chest that makes 607 points of damage.


the maximum blunt damage absorption rate is 446 on my armor: I can reduce the attack by 446 points maximum.


But the protection factor of my armor is 53.4%, or 324 points: so I reduce the attack by 324 points.
I therefore collect 283 damage points.

These three absorption rates are related to the quality of my armor.
The higher the quality of the armor, the higher the numbers.

It is necessary to privilege an armor with the highest quality.

The percentage of protection (excluding boost) changes according to the type of armor:
  • 45% ~ 55% for heavy armors
  • 30% ~ 45% for medium armor
  • 10% ~ 25% for light armors

Action malus


From this perspective, you might think the best armor is heavy armor.
That's forgetting the action penalty.

This malus increases for each action the consumption of life, sap, stamina and focus.
For a mage, it also reduces the range of a spell.
  • Light armor: no malus.
  • Medium armor: 5% malus per piece: total 25% for a complete armor set.
  • Heavy armor: 20% malus per piece: total 120% malus for a complete armor set.

Armor that minimizes the malus of action should be preferred.

The malus of action is in opposition to the protection factor.
The choice of armor will depend on how you fight.
  • Heavy armor that favors the protection factor for close combat, e. g. tank.
  • Light armor that reduces the malus of action for a mage who attacks from a distance and never goes close (e. g. group with tank)
  • Medium armor can be a good compromise depending on the circumstances: second tank, shooting weapon, hand to hand mage....

A harvester will prefer light armor to minimize his consumption in focus.

The choice between light, medium or heavy armor depends on what you want to promote:
minimize the "malus of action" or maximize the "protection factor".

Life Bonus and Generic Bonus


Armor parts add a life bonus depending on their type:
  • light armor: 0
  • medium armor: quality/2
  • heavy armor: quality

In addition to this automatic life bonus, the craftsman can when making an armor element add a generic life, focus, stamina or sap bonus of a maximum value of "quality/2".

In general, the generic "life" bonus is a good choice. Otherwise:
  • harvesters will prefer a focus bonus.
  • the mages will prefer a sap bonus.
  • melee fighters will prefer an endurance bonus.

You can also mix these bonuses generally with a life part.

[h2Defense Mode[/h2]

There are 2 modes of defence: parry or dodge.

You can select the mode from your options bar.



You will find your dodge or parry values in the identity screen, press P.
Your personal parry or dodge value changes according to your level:
Dodge = your maximum level in magic or melee, or your maximum level/2 in drilling or crafts.
Parry = your maximum level in melee with the equipped weapon.
We are always looking to maximize this value.

The choice of a defense mode, parry or dodge, therefore depends on your level and the weapon and armor you're wearing.

It should be noted that each piece of armor brings a parry or dodge bonus as follows:
  • Light Armor - Dodge: 1 to 2 / Parry: 0 to 1
  • Medium armor - Dodge: -1 to 1 / Parry: 0 to 2
  • Heavy armor - Dodge: -3 to 0 / Parry: 0 to 3

We try to maximize one of the two bonuses, and most often we will talk:
  • full dodge light armor: 2 x 5 pieces = +10 dodge in addition to your basic dodge
  • full parade heavy armor: 3 x 6 pieces = +18 parry in addition to your basic parry

Max quality I can wear


Finally, how do I know if I can wear an armor piece?

If the armor is grayed out in the inventory or a purchase or exchange interface, you do not have the required characteristics, namely:
  • Light armor: maximum level + 25.
  • Medium armor: constitution x 1.5.
  • Heavy armor: constitution + 10.

Thanks to Anthikal for his work

Edited 2 times | Last edited by Ashgan (1 year ago)

#8 [en] 

Very helpful info here.

#9 [fr] 

Ashgan
Moniq
Very nice, can the wiki adopt it?

that was made for being shared, so it's a yes for me.
(please credit Scooby for the work and Kyriann for the trad)
oui mais c'est toi, Ashgan, qui sait où sont les images en anglais....ai trouvé la page que tu as faite sur le wiki fr (on a jouté les catégorie pour que ces 2 pages sopient trouvables sur le wiki)coté wiki anglais, j'ai juste ajouté un lien vers le forum (je viens de découvrir où c'était sur le forum)

---



Mon profil sur le wiki Francais https://fr.wiki.ryzom.com/wiki/Utilisatrice:Craftjenn


Craftjenn, Ranger

#10 [fr] 

Craftjenn
oui mais c'est toi, Ashgan, qui sait où sont les images en anglais....ai trouvé la page que tu as faite sur le wiki fr (on a jouté les catégorie pour que ces 2 pages sopient trouvables sur le wiki)coté wiki anglais, j'ai juste ajouté un lien vers le forum (je viens de découvrir où c'était sur le forum)
done: https://en.wiki.ryzom.com/wiki/Market/MiniLesson

Last edited by Ashgan (10 months ago)

#11 Multilingual 

Multilingual | [Français] | English

Les armes de mêlée. Comment choisir la vôtre ?

Transcription du cours donné par Naveruss le Dua, Frutor 20, 3e CA 2606 (4 Janvier 2020).

Oren pyr ! Je vais brièvement vous parler des armes de mêlées et de comment s’en servir.

Généralités


Idéalement, l’arme doit être du plus haut niveau possible par rapport à ce que vous pouvez porter.

Note : Le niveau maximum que vous pouvez porter est égal à votre force+10. De même, votre force maximale peut atteindre votre plus haut niveau en combat+15.

Toutefois, une arme mal faite peut être moins performante qu’une arme de niveau moindre mais réalisée dans les règles de l’art.
C’est valable également pour la qualité, une arme suprême peut-être moins efficace qu’une arme de choix.
Ci dessous les caractéristiques de deux épées deux mains de même niveau, une suprême mais de fabrication médiocre et une de choix mais faite dans le règles de l’art.

Les caractéristiques à vérifier


Maintenant on va s’intéresser aux caractéristiques les plus importantes de l’arme.

Sachez d’abord qu’une arme peut servir à taper aussi bien des bestioles (PvE) que des homins (PvP), mais on s’intéressera pour le moment aux bestioles uniquement.

Contre des animaux, le plus important sera de faire un maximum de dégâts, en prenant en compte les dégâts par coups et le nombre de coups par minute.
Il faut savoir que les dégâts varient d’une arme à l’autre, les massues et haches étant les plus violentes, après viennent les épées et pique.
Ensuite, les bonus de parade et esquive améliorent votre défense, ils sont modérément importants, surtout si vous êtes en équipe avec un soigneur.
De même, les modificateurs de parade et esquive adverses sont d’une importance moindre contre les bestioles, celles-ci alliant généralement une parade ou esquive faible.
Toutefois, contre des homins, ces dernières caractéristiques gagnent en importance, mais je ne m’étendrai pas sur le sujet.

Pour résumer, vous devez en premier lieu favoriser les dégâts par minute de votre arme, puis l’ensemble des modificateurs d’esquive et parade après.

Armes à une ou deux mains ?


Maintenant nous allons parler des différences entre les armes à une ou deux mains.

Les armes à deux mains font plus de dégâts par minute et offrent de meilleurs bonus de parade pour vous et contre votre adversaire.
Il peut être intéressant, lors de ses débuts, de commencer par s’entrainer à utiliser une bonne grosse arme à deux mains, comme une hache ou massue.

Une arme à une main sera moins offensive mais vous permettra d’utiliser un bouclier ou une rondache afin d’améliorer votre défense (ou éventuellement une dague dans le cas de l’épée).
Les armes à une main offrent également de meilleurs modificateurs d’esquive.

En résumé, si vous avez le choix, utilisez donc des armes à deux mains contre ce qui pare, et à une main contre ce qui esquive.

Quel type de dégats ?


Les armes tranchantes permettent de provoquer des hémorragies, et donc des bonus de dégât, qui plus est, la majeure partie des bestioles sont vulnérables au tranchant.

Les armes contondantes permettent de ralentir les attaques adverses, et donc limiter les dégâts reçus. Toutefois, moins de bestioles y sont sensibles.

Les armes perçantes peuvent passer outre les protections de vos adversaires. Par conséquent, malgré leurs dégâts moindres, elles sont redoutables contre les ennemis lourdement protégés.

Note : Les lances et piques servent avant tout en PvP ou contre certaines bestioles résistantes comme les vorax ou kipucka. Il n’est donc pas prioritaire de les maitriser dès vos premiers pas.

Quoi dans la main gauche ?


Un dernier point que nous allons aborder, lorsque l’on a une arme à une main, que choisir entre un bouclier, une rondache ou une dague pour la main gauche ?

Si vous souhaitez maximiser votre parade, prenez un bouclier.

Inversement, si vous souhaitez maximiser votre esquive, prenez une rondache, ou une dague si vous avez déjà une épée ou dague dans l’autre main.

Que regarder dans l’information système ?


Soit il vous est indiqué que vous n’avez pas touché votre cible, dans ce cas vous ne faites aucun dégât, soit vous touchez, dans ce cas, il est indiqué les dégâts nets infligés, et entre parenthèse, les dégâts bruts avant d’y soustraire la réduction de dégât dû à la résistance adverse.
Vous y trouverez aussi les informations de parade ou esquive de votre adversaire vous permettant d’adapter votre arme en fonction entre arme à une ou deux mains.

Edited 2 times | Last edited by Kyriann (9 months ago)

---

Kyriann Ba'Zephy Rie
Cheffe de la guilde Bai Nhori Drakani
Taliar
Mère de famille

#12 Multilingual 

Multilingual | [English] | Français
Hello,

All lessons are now on the wiki too at https://en.wiki.ryzom.com/wiki/Fairhaven_Little_Ones_Market

 

Last edited by Craftjenn (8 months ago)

#13 Multilingual 

Multilingual | Français | [English]

All about jewels



Transcript of the lecture given by Zendae on 17h - Holeth, Thermis 24, 3rd AC 2607 (14/03/2020).

My name is Zendae, I was born into the Hamazans of the Dead Seed tribe. Jewellery is a precocious passion of mine.
In my sorority, I was in charge of making ornaments, so I had to assimilate the rules of this craft.
I consider myself to be self-taught, but that's only half true. Even if I don't have an identified master, there is some knowledge that is very difficult to find alone, but which results from numerous exchanges with your relatives, having themselves learned some knowledge.

I will therefore share with you some important notions about jewels, especially about how they protect us. The goal being to widen your knowledge in order to be able to better equip you, today and in the future.

As far as homin memories go... jewels have always existed. But they weren't as functional as they are today. They could have an ornamental function and social rank, like finely worked matis earrings and necklaces ... Or they could have a symbolic or monetary function, like tryker rings... Among the fyros, anklet rings and bracelets were musical instruments, which they used to ring during festive dances or war to impress their enemies... And finally, the traditional Zorai tiara set with a polished amber sphere is so old that it is said that the Zorais already used it before they inherited their mask, to focus their meditation.

Then the homins discovered magic, a teaching of the Kamis. They learned how to make weapons and armour with potions to increase their vitality, endurance, sap or concentration. Then, they discovered that jewels have the ability to protect us from the magical forces of elemental magic, just as armor protects us from physical blows.
The jewelry took on a new function, and each people learned how to make a complete set of jewels.

Jewelry and Potions


Let's first talk about the effect of jewelry on our physiological resources.

Each piece of jewelry, like any piece of equipment, can be made with a potion.
A potion can increase either your vitality, your concentration, your sap, your stamina ... or even a mixture of these four; the total is up to half of the quality "Q" of the jewel.
And since we can wear up to ten pieces of jewellery, this makes the set the most potion-packed set of equipment. For example, a homin with a maximum skill level of 55, could wear jewels of quality Q70 -25 degrees higher than his level-, with each one providing 35 health points, or 350 points in total.
For a master of the 25th circle, a standard jewelry set provides up to 1250 health points .

Life... or focus; from a certain level, a forager cannot spare a complete focus set while extracting materials, it is an indispensable piece of equipment.

The complete sets of sap or stamina are not very used to my knowledge, but a mix life / sap or life / stamina could prove interesting especially for the solitary hunters who too often found themselves paralyzed by lack of sap or stamina.

Nevertheless, the life set is of the most elementary when it comes to surviving dangers!
This is what you need to get started.

By rummaging through the markets, you can find jewelry made by other homins to renew your finery.
But don't expect anything more from these jewels than to provide potions that are relevant to your level!
When it comes to magical defenses, they are often far below what a craftsman can do when he makes the effort.

I will say a few more words about these potions applied to jewellery.
It is possible to find jewels with a potion contribution higher than the normal one, that is to say higher than half the quality of the jewel:
- on the jewels made with the help of a tool improved with armilo, material coming from outposts;
- on jewels gained in the loot by robbing named primitives, the least of whom was Doren, living north of the Lakes;
- on jewels won during "Quests of the Wise": one quest per capital, once in a homin's life;
- and finally on jewels made from an "aberrant" trick -probably invented by a fyros - which consists mainly for the craftsman to be dressed in heavy armor; but this is an insignificant process on small jewels.

Here is a first sample of jewels with additional potions.


Jewelry and Magic Defense


Let's move on to the magical defense of the jewels.

This is a much more complex and exciting aspect than the first one!
And often neglected by novice hunters or magicians, or even masters.
Why? Because even if you know the theory, optimizing the magical defense of an ornament will require some planning, either from you or your mentors. But if your progress is fast, making a high value-added set of jewellery will not be worth the candle: you will soon have to make a new one. Young recruits usually evolve with jewellery without looking for a magical defence, get used to it and are always satisfied with it even once they have mastered it...

And yet, optimizing the magic defense would make you more efficient. Less effort for your healer, less untimely slips, better chances of survival. For example, it annoys me to see homins chasing the kincher without electrical protection.

As for novices, with the right finery, mowing intelligent plants becomes very easy di amataki, even alone.

In terms of magical defense, the most complex adornments are the war ornaments, which must cover you with all possible spells, those of offensive magic at the very least.

So in summary, we need a set with good magic defences for :
- Increase our survivability while on the move against untimely magical attacks from wildlife;
- Be more effective when hunting a specific species that we know has special magical attacks, and that we will hunt many times;
- To defend ourselves against magical attacks from other homins.


All this requires a knowledge of Atys and its dangers. Could you give me some examples of animals that are capable of performing an attack of elemental magical force?

In terms of magical defenses, we must distinguish two things: Protections and Resistances.

And to start with, every homin has natural magical protections and resistances, even in his birthday suit, di amataki. These mainly increase as you develop your skills as a warrior or magician.

Protections


Let's start with the easiest to understand: the Protections.

They only concern offensive magic: Acid, Cold, Rot, Fire, Poison, Shockwave and Electricity.
That's seven types of elemental forces in all.
]All homins naturally have a 10% protection rating against acid, cold, and rot. And, depending on their race of sap, an additional 20% protection rate,
fire for the fyros, poison for the matis, shockwave for the trykers and electricity for the zorais.


These protection rates do not increase with training, but what does increase is the ]absorption threshold, which is equal to half of your highest combat or magic skill, and is the maximum you can take from a magic attack without suffering damage.

Hmm you follow di amatakima? Okay, here's an example:

Imagine Be'mayol Jicky, a 10th Circle melee combat tryker ―without jewel― , melee beeing his highest skill.
He has a natural absorption threshold of 50 magic damage (100 / 2 ).
- He gets hit by a cold spell from a defensive Stinga, causing 200 damages.
He absorbs 10% of the damage, a decrease of 20 damages, which is well below his absorption threshold of 50.
In the end, he suffers 200 - 20 = 180 damages.
- Later Be'mayol meets Yberkan, a very rare bird.
He suffers a shock wave of 400 damages by annoying one of its guards.
According to his natural protection rate against the shock wave, he could absorb 20% of it, that is to say 80 damages.
But 80 is higher than the threshold of 50, di amatakizo! It's the smaller one that wins.
so in the end he still suffers 400 - 50 = 350 damages.


In both cases, it will expose our novice Tryker to danger.
But he can protect himself with jewelry, which will have two effects:
- Increase certain levels of protection;
- and increase the maximum absorption threshold.

Or, say in more detail:
- Each standard design piece of jewelry increases three of seven protection levels up to +8%;
- Each piece of jewelry increases the wearer's absorption rate by a value equal to half its quality.


Suppose our tryker Be'mayol gets a Q120 set.
In addition to 600 additional health points, this will already raise its absorption rate to 50 (natural) + 60x10 (jewels) = 650 damages. That's better, isn't it?
Let's assume that our tryker has a special set of jewels, each of which gives him 8% extra protection against shock waves.
This gives him in theory 10 x 8% = 80%...
On top of that his 20% natural ! So in total 100% protection !? Wow! Immune!?


Well... no...
because the maximum protection a homin can have against an elemental force is 70%.

Still, with 70% protection against shock waves and also let's assume - let's be crazy - 70% protection against the cold;
in the previous attack examples, Be'mayol would only have suffered 60 out of 200 damages from the stinga,
and 120 out of 400 from the Yber.
That's a pretty big defense, especially if the attacks are repeated.

In my opinion, a good magic defense will save you much more often than a potion value just a little higher on the jewel.
A Q200 set instead of Q250 is a deficit of 250 potions of life.
250 is a lot? no, just a pinch from a clopper.

Let's go back to our special set with +8 jewels.
A set offering 80% protection already represents a non-optimization since 10% is necessarily wasted, the maximum being 70%. Without forgetting that the homin may already have a natural protection.
But nothing obliges to have a set with all the identical jewels!
We can very well have a mix of different jewels to have a substantial coverage on a selection of elemental forces that we risk to undergo most frequently unexpectedly.

For example, a set that would cover electricity, acid, poison and fire... would seem to me to be valuable and reassuring.

Resistances


Well, now that you've fully grasped the concept of Protection, let's move on to Resistance.

As for protection, every homin has a natural resistance to magic spells. The fauna and flora are also able to resist our spells besides. I said spells and not forces. You can't withstand the electric shock of a Kincher, or the acidic spit of a Zerx. You can only resist spells, meaning incanted magical attacks. This is the case of attacks coming from homins, but also from intelligent plants, primitives, and some rare animals like the gubani.

When you successfully resist a spell, you don't suffer any of its effects!

Our natural resistance to spells is equal to our highest skill in combat or magic, minus 26 points.
You must therefore already have at least one level above 26 to benefit from any resistance.
The natural resistance of a master in melee or magic is therefore 250 - 26 = 224 points.
For non-battle skills, take half of their value as a basis.

More precisely, we have five kinds of resistances, one for each of the Domains of magic:
The Desert Domain;
The Forest Domain;
The Lake Domain;
The Jungle Domain;
The Prime Root Domain.

Each spell of elemental magic, but also of offensive and defensive affliction, is part of one of these Domains. Healing magic is not linked to a Domain, but ..., that said, no one wants to resist a healing spell, hahaha!

For example:
- If you have a high resistance to the *Jungle Domain*,
you can resist the electric spell of a Psykopla.
- If you have a high resistance to the *Lake Domain*,
you will be able to withstand the shockwave spell of the same Psykopla or the cold one of a Stinga.
It is therefore necessary to learn to which domain each spell belongs! At least every elemental magic spell.

Just as for Protection, there is for the magical resistance of the homins a specificity of sap breed, di amataki.
A homin will have an extra 10 points of resistance in the domain that corresponds to his sap.
For example, a tryker is more resistant to the spells of Lake Domain.

But because that would be too simple, there's also a region specificity!
For example, when we are in the Jungle, our resistance to the Jungle domain is decreased by 10.
By the way, this is also true for the fauna and flora.
It will less resist to electric spells in the jungle, and less to poison spells in the forest, and so on.

When we endure a spell, we have a chance to resist it.
The higher your resistance is, compared to the magic power of the attacker, the more likely you are to resist it.
It should be noted:
- For elemental magic, we compare the level of the spellcaster with the resistance of the target;
a master of elemental magic will always injure his target even with a weak spell;
- For offensive or defensive affliction, we compare the level of the spell with the resistance of the target;
so it requires a powerful spell to control powerful creatures;
- beyond a certain differential, your chances of resisting will never be more than three out of four (75%).
- or, formulated from another point of view: 1/4 of the attacks will always pass even with the best resistance[/i] …

Namely:
- Each standard jewel increases your resistance in three of five domains by up to +8.
- The values of resistances have a maximum value of 50 points above your highest magic or combat skill.
.

For example, our tryker Be'mayol Jicky from the 10th circle can therefore have a maximum resistance of 150, thanks to the jewels.
Which is already higher than the plants he'd reap to train alone.


If, to mow intelligent plants that only use magic attacks, you have a set that offers resistances AND protections against their spells, then mowing becomes even easier di amatakizo!
This even if the set is of a quality "Q" lower than what you can claim :
only 1/4 of the attacks will pass, with only 30% of their power…

Jewelry and Craft


Now let's talk about jewelry crafting!

The Resistances and Protections that a jewel provides are a function of the materials from which it was made.
The result depends on the selections and combinations of materials, as is the case with any craft.

Creating an optimized ornament, taking into account what you want to face, but also taking into account your natural defenses, often takes a lot of time. Not to mention the time to glean the materials afterwards! And ornaments are not eternal, they wear out! So you have to know how to accept compromises or get organised.

For example, the great guild craftsmen who have to equip the troops of novices will develop a recipe for plant jewelry, i. e. a recipe which is easy to glean materials for mass production, and which offers acceptable protection against the most hunted plants: psykoplas and cratchas.
It will be all the easier to produce if the recipe only requires material from digging, of which good quantities can be obtained quickly.

War sets, on the other hand, are only relevant once you are close to a level of master and therefore have the maximum natural resistance to spells. They are designed to discourage the opponent from using magic. Resistances and protections are distributed to cover all types of offensive magic spells.
Either you resist or you absorb!
If a spell is not covered by a resistance or protection, in the jargon, there is said to be a "hole".
If the hole is uncovered by the enemy, you will be swept systematically afterwards.
The war ornament represents a summit of Homin craftsmanship, invented here on the New Lands.
It is very effective against elemental magic, but remember that it is impossible to cover all the afflictions with a single jewelry set, because you can only maximally resist three of the five areas.
Besides, one cannot resist so well to offensive or defensive affliction even with a set.

We're almost done with this jewelry course.
I'm passing around new samples of jewelry thanks to the organizers with different settings: troop training jewelry, antikitin jewelry for the troops, veteran tracker jewelry, and war jewelry.

Artistic Jewelry


These jewels are made from hunting and digging materials from a single region.
They can bring interesting protections but are also beautiful gifts.


Utility jewellery






Elite Jewelry



War/Combat Jewelry



Jewelry and Plan


One last word on the durability of jewelry!

These are pieces of equipment that wear out very quickly. You have to consider the other scale of "quality" of objects.
Not the one that is given in numbers, but the one that depends on the plan used by the craftsman: basic, medium or high quality.
What influence does this have on the characteristics of the jewellery?
Absolutely none: a jewel of high quality will not necessarily have better characteristics than a jewel of basic quality.
Except its durability.
The durability of high-grade jewelry is much higher!
Just remember it when you no longer need to upgrade your finery every spring and will therefore be able to invest in sustainability.

Bibliography


Here, for those who would like to continue with readings...

You should know that there is a sheet on jewellery written, a long time ago, by Zorais from the former Wakwai monastery.
It sums up very well the essence of the magical defence by jewels. And shorter than what I've done today!
Jewelry File
(Only french version. The document dates from before a reform on jewellery resistance, but the gist is right).

For those who are more particularly interested in making, you can also read the diary of my discoveries in jewellery craftsmanship. I will continue to write it one day...
Jewellery Apprentice

I would like to thank the Fairhaven Market organizers for inviting me di amabini, in particular nair Kyriann.
And thank you, attentive listeners.
May this course benefit you.
Meriae! Hezivele! Umaferye!
Beauty! Curiosity! Virtuosity!

---

Kyriann Ba'Zephy Rie
Cheffe de la guilde Bai Nhori Drakani
Taliar
Mère de famille
uiWebPrevious1uiWebNext
 
Last visit Tue Nov 24 09:09:05 2020 UTC
P_:

powered by ryzom-api